With New York Fashion Week finally finished, we’re shifting our focus from the runway to the red carpet in time for Sunday’s Academy Awards ceremony. After rocking T-Swift inspired tips for the Grammys, thanks to Red Carpet Manicure, we turned to backstage staple and Paintbox Creative Director Julie Kandalec for the step-by-step to score a nail look inspired by one of the Oscar nominees, Gone Girl’s Rosamund Pike.
Beauty Buzz: Rebecca Minkoff’s Mani Makeover, Giuliana Rancic's Shade Shift, and the Psychology of Skin
Rebecca Minkoff‘s fashion show always guarantees a magnificent mani, but the designer is taking her love of nail art to the next level as the new Global Color Designer at Essie. She’s been a fan of the nail authority for a long time, first linking up with Essie to take care of the tips and toes of her models starting back in 2012 with fresh looks mani mavens immediately replicated for the season. And she’s already crafted a spring collection, Flowerista, inspired by the season’s pretty perennials that will hit shelves in March. As she explained, “I have always had a lifelong passion for vibrant nail color and nail art – they are the perfect accessory and offer every woman another unique way to express herself.” [Glam Inbox]
Giuliana Rancic will be rocking the Oscars red carpet on Sunday with a new hair color. But the E! correspondent saved time by skipping the salon and opted to craft her color at home with Vidal Sassoon Salonist to go from her bold blonde to a golden brown with warm undertones. While she admitted she was nervous to try the new system, once it was done, she realized why separating the shades for her roots and ends was so important. As she explained, “I never had a reason to question why, but it makes sense – it’s similar to how you don’t use the same moisturizer for your face and body. The same thinking applies to hair since your roots and lengths need different amounts of dye.” [Glam Inbox]
We all know a bad day can get worse when a blemish appears on your skin, but it may be more that skin deep! The mind-body connection can be strong enough to show issues like stress, anxiety, depression, or more on your face in the form of acne, rosacea, psoriasis, itching, eczema, pain, and hives, according to recent report from the American Psychological Association. But there is help! Aside from our go-to spot treatments, psychologists have tried cognitive behavioral therapy and meditation to help heal dermatological conditions along with the mental issues. Kristina G. Gorbatenko-Roth, a psychology professor at the University of Wisconsin-Stout, told the APA, “The skin is the most noticeable part of our body that could be impacted by psychological factors. It’s classic health psychology, just in a different area.” [The Huffington Post]
When Hollywood’s brightest take to the red carpet for The Academy Awards, there’s sure to be plenty of snark on more than just the ensembles. A recent report found that on Twitter alone, women are more than 50% more likely to say something negative about themselves, and Dove is looking to shift that conversation to something positive with its upcoming #SpeakBeautiful campaign. While working with the social platform, negative tweets will trigger constructive and accessible advice from the brand’s self-esteem experts to encourage more positive language. As Audrey Hepburn said, “For beautiful eyes, look for the good in others; for beautiful lips, speak only words of kindness; and for poise, walk with the knowledge that you are never alone.” [Glam Inbox]
Many of us boast at least of drop of ink on our skin, some with a bit of art they wish they could erase. The process may become easier, as a Canadian student recently developed a cream that could replace the cells holding the ink with fresh ones to slowly but surely fade any tattoo disaster without the burning or blistering of a laser removal. While the new drug is still in its testing phase, the product could be a cheaper and safer solution to any ink regret when it finally hits shelves. [The Independent]
THE SHOW: Marchesa
THE HAIR: Channeling The Great Gatsby, Antonio Corral Calero sculpted a soft faux bob, starting with a cocktail of the Moroccanoil Treatment and Volumizing Mousse from root to tip. For added lift, he applied the brand’s Root Boost at the roots before a rough blow dry. He then created a deep side part above the arch of the eyebrow, stopping at the nape of the neck. Calelro then wrapped 1/2 inch sections of hair, beginning at the nape of the neck, around a 3/4 inch iron to create a fingerwave throughout the hair. Once the hair cooled, he brushed out the curls and pulled it into the low, loose ponytail before rolling the pony under all of the hair and securing it at the nape of the neck. He fingercombed the hair at the sides under the rolled section and secured it to create the faux bob, loosening the waves along the way. He polished it off with a mist from the Luminous Hairspray and Glimmer Shine.
THE MAKEUP: Gucci Westman wanted the Gatsby girls to look as if they’d danced all night byt first giving their skin added glow with Revlon’s PhotoReady Skinlights Face Illuminator in Bare Lights with a slight flush of Cream Blush in Charmed. The eyes had a dark haze with a blend of the Illuminance Creme Shadows in Not just Nudes, the PhotoReady Eye Art in Burnished Bling, darkening the lash line and lid with the ColorStay Shadow Links in Java. After bumping up the lashes and brows, she created a berry kiss by lining the lip with the Raisin Lip Liner and then applying the Super Lustrous Lipstick in Black Cherry, adding a drop of Lustrous Lipgloss in Snow Pink for added shine and dimension.
Jay Manuel is out to empower the modern makeup maven with his own eponymous color cosmetics line. The new beauty buys made their runway debut today for Bibhu Mohapatra’s artist and muse-inspired Fall 2015 collection, adding vibrant, yet moody splash of colors to the ensembles. As Manuel touched on the finer points of the makeup look for the show, Glam had to get the details on what beauty buffs can expect to see when the line hits HSN on March 26th.
We were so excited about your new beauty line. What sparked the idea of partnering with HSN for its exclusive debut?
I wanted to do the exclusive with HSN because when i started with this whole line, it was bringing new technology to America. I was going back and forth between Italy and Korea. For instance, The Skin Perfector Foundations have micronized silk in it; the shadows have crushed gemstones and diamond dust in them — there’s no pearl, no shimmer in it.
It’s one thing to be in stores, but I wanted to being that technology to the US,and there was no better place than HSN to really get that kind of reach for all women because there’s no age restriction with the line. People ask, “What age category are you looking at?” And I say, “No.” It’s a place where every woman can start her makeup day with the Skin Perfecting Foundation of the one of the Luxe Powders before you get into your color products. The rest of the line is based on three styles: iconic, classic, and avant garde and from working with so many women and doing their makeup over the years, I realized women instinctively put themselves in one of those three categories because there is no other category! And I’m coming back to this idea of self-sourcing your style no crowd sourcing. You don’t need to take a picture on Instagram and ask, “This lipstick or this lipstick?” Because if you know you’re classic or avant garde or iconic, we’ve already done that work for you in terms of the color groups and categories; everything is built for you. I’m putting you back in the driver’s seat.
What’s the one item from the line that every beauty buff has to try first?
It’s hard when they’re all your babies, but I will say every woman should start her day with the Filter Finish Collection, which is the core of the brand. So for instance, today on the models we’re using the Skin Perfector Foundations. This is a one-stop shop because the micronized silk in it obscures fine lines, pores, and goes on with a silicone base. When we were doing shoots a couple of months ago, [the makeup artists] were trying to take the lab samples. All the artists are using them because even though it’s a consumer product it has the makeup artist’s approval. It’s easy to use, and it really gives you that filter finish canvas, so whether you’re doing color or just mascara and lip gloss on the go, you need to start with your Filter Finish Skin Perfector Foundation.
It’s been an incredibly hectic week, what do you keep in your NYFW survival kit?
Power Bars; someone asked me to open my bag, and I think I dumped half a box of bars in there. I’m one of those people if I don’t eat, I don’t angry, I don’t get hungry, I get hangry. I’m that combination, so I need Power Bars for sure. I know it’s supposed to be cold, but in the tents it’s blazingly hot, so I need makeup blots because my skin is super oily so I have to walk around with blots. And finally just water to stay hydrated.
Images courtesy of Jay Manuel’s Instagram.
THE SHOW: Naeem Khan
THE HAIR: Joseph DiMaggio gave the French twist a textured update by first blowdrying the hair and sectioning it from ear to ear. After tying up the back section, he applied a generous amount of the Davines More Inside This is a Volume Boosting Mousse to the roots and hairline of the front section, blowdrying the roots upwards and backcombing for lift. He molded the hair towards the right side, pinning the hair along the way. He released the back section before rolling the hair towards the center of the face and securing the roll with U-pins. Once pinned in place, use a tail comb to pick the hair into the desired shape and create volume before polishing it off with the More Inside This is a Medium Hold Hair Spray.
THE MAKEUP: James Boehmer amplified the glamor of the collection with a soft smoky eye by blending the NARS Ashes to Ashes and Bali eye shadows from the lash line to the brow and out towards the temple to create a soft wash of color and skipping the mascara along the way. The face was kept fresh and glowing with a natural finish. The lip was layered with the Mambo Eye Liner, Jungle Red Lip Liner, and the Mysterious Red Velvet Matte Lip Pencil,
Talia Sparrow is a Fashion Week veteran, working with the likes of Marchesa, Jenny Packham, and more to dictate the beauty trends we all fall in love with and follow into the next season. Plus, we can’t forget the exquisite editorials she’s had featured in the pages of Interview, V Magazine, and Marie Claire. Glam checked in with the makeup maestro as she prepped the cool, downtown version of the Jenny Packham girl for the designer’s Fall 2015 show before making sure she puts her son to bed:
|6:00 a.m.:||This is my normal wake up time, unless I have an early call time. Waking up this early allows me to prepare and get things situated before my son wakes up – and thankfully, I also time to meditate. I love starting the day with a moment to express gratitude and to clear out anything that’s been bugging me. I also tend to catch up on emails during this time.|
|7-7:30 a.m.:||My son wakes up and it’s all systems go getting him ready.|
|10:00 a.m.:||I take a quick look at my makeup kit, to make sure that everything is in there that may be needed for the Jenny Packham makeup test today.|
|11 a.m.:/td>||I arrive at the Jenny Packham showroom and am completely wowed by the collection, yet again! Then the thinking cap goes on and ideas are thrown across between Jenny, the stylist, and myself. Jenny has previously shared the written inspiration of the collection, which gave me a nice starting point of what she was thinking for the makeup.|
|12:00 p.m.:||I prep the test model’s skin. Since it’s so cold in New York City, the skin needs to be moisturized and brought back to life.|
|12:30 p.m.:||My assistant Seevon has set up my kit and it is time for me to start on the look.|
|1:00 p.m.:||Skin is prepped and primed – and we decided to only using base where needed, rather than applying a full face. The collection is cool, fresh and young with a dash of rock and roll. So in keeping with this theme, we use base where needed and add mascara and black eyeliner in the water line. Finally, we mix Laura Mercier Eye Glacé in Blazing Sun with Laura Mercier Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Cocoa and apply to the lower lash line.|
|2:30 p.m.:||There is a lot of back and forth until the look is finalized.|
|3:00 p.m.||It’s time to pack up and go. My assistant Seevon and I grab lunch to discuss the breakdown of the look.|
|5:00 p.m.:||I run to Rite Aid to grab extra supplies – including cotton swabs and pads – for the show. My kit goes with Seevon, so she can make sure it’s in tip top shape for the next day.|
|6:30 p.m.:||I go through my emails and answer all that have come through.|
|7:00 p.m.:||I put my son to bed.|
|8:00 p.m.:||For dinner, I make something healthy and light, as it’s already pretty late.|
|9:00 p.m.:||I’m in bed, since I like to start the day early and end it early.|
Thomas Osborn has spent a good part of his over 20 years in the beauty business sharing his insights with the newest crop of chic stylists and helping them to sharpen their skills to make their mark in the industry. But that doesn’t he isn’t in touch with the latest trends; in fact, as part of the TIGI global creative team, he’s not only recognized but also created many of the tress trends we experiment with after the Fashion Week tents come down. Glam caught up with the mane maestro as he developed the colorful coif that hit the Libertine runway all before making it home in time to hang out with his wife and son:
|5:00 AM:||Wake up and work out. I’m not a morning person by choice, I’m much more of a night owl but I’ve trained myself over the years to get up early even when I’m up late. These days, if I don’t get up and work out before the house is awake, it doesn’t happen. So, I get up at 5:00am, have my morning espresso and wake up a bit, check my emails from the UK (their day is well under way so I always have a few to sort through) and, of course, check the Instagram feed. By then I feel more alive, so I’ll get my workout in.|
|7:00 AM:||After my workout, I take our 2 rat terriers, Rocket and GoGo, out for a walk and come back to have breakfast with my wife and our 2 1/2 year old son, he’s the best part of every morning! My son loves waffles, so we’ll make some for him, steal a few bites, then it’s a quick shower, get dressed and off to the TIGI Academy in SoHo.|
|9:00 AM:||A lot of the TIGI team is based in London so we need to schedule meetings fairly early to account for the time difference. We’re getting ready to set out on a tour at the end of the month in San Francisco, so we’re in the midst of ironing out all of the details.|
|11:00 AM:||Since it’s Fashion Week, we have stylists coming in from across the country so its great to see some of my friends that I haven’t seen since September. We have to prepare more than 50 braids using hair extensions for the Mara Hoffman show on Saturday so that’s what we’ll be doing throughout the day.|
|1:00 PM:||We also need to prepare a mood board with a few images of the look from the hair test to go over with the team. The idea is to give them as much insight as we can, then it’s all about the execution. I also like to make sure our playlist is all set – it helps to keep the energy up backstage.|
|3:00 PM:||To prepare for a hair test with Libertine this evening, we basically work on a few different variations of what we had spoken about with the designer during our initial “inspiration call” earlier in the month. We take the inspiration and work it out a few different ways so that when we turn up for the test, we’ve got a couple of different ideas on where we can take it depending on what the designer thinks. After all, this about bringing the designer’s vision to life and the hair can’t overpower the clothes. The whole look has got to work with what’s going on in the collection, but ultimately, it’s got to be about the clothes.|
|5:00 PM:||We head over to the Loews Hotel in Midtown to meet Johnson (the designer for Libertine) for the hair test. He takes us through the collection and the model is already done with makeup and nails so it’s up to us to finish the look.|
|7:00 PM:||After a few variations of the look, we settle on a soft, undone, “cool” look. To make it special, we paint the part with neon pink MAC pigment, which ties the vibrant clothes together with the casual hair. We’re really excited about this one and know it’s going to be an awesome show.|
|8:00 PM:||Return home in time to put my son to sleep. The goal at the end of every day is to get home with enough time to hang out with my son. Love it when we can eat dinner together but if not, at least mess around for a bit, read him a story or two, sing him a song and then he’s off to bed and my wife and I have dinner and chill out (whether we’re just hanging out and talking, listening to music or watching a movie). It doesn’t matter what kind of a day I’ve had, the moment I walk through the door and see those faces, it’s all good.|
|11:00 PM:||It’s funny, most days end the same way they start, responding to emails and then looking through my Instagram feed half asleep until I pass out.|
THE SHOW: Karen Walker
THE HAIR: Jordan M. sought to maintain the girls texture while adding a ’70s twist to their look. He blow dried Bumble & Bumble’s Prep Spray and Thickening Spray to add some density to the hair. He curled the front sections with the Does It All Spray and a small curling to create Farrah Fawcett-inspired wings, pin-curling them in place until the girls were ready to hit the runway.
THE MAKEUP: Benjamin Puckey made the peepers pop by lining the lash line with the Sephora Collection Contour Eye Pencil 12hr Wear Waterproof in Cocoa and the brand’s Colorful Eyeshadow Shimmer in Tiramisu, blending them towards the outer corner of the eye. He then pressed the Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette‘s Gonzo Eyeshadow into the inner corner of the eye and under the lower lashline with a few coats of mascara. After the skin’s tone was evened, he contoured the cheeks with the Kat Von D Shade & Light Contour Palette and Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Moonstone, Pearl, or Topaz, depensing on the model’s skin tone. He finished the look with a little bit of the Sephora Collection Rouge Cream Lipstick in Love Life.
THE SHOW: Tracy Reese
THE HAIR: Bok Hee sculpted a strong ponytail by first Blowdrying the hair with SheaMoisture’s Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair Blow Out Cream slicking back the strands with the Cocout & Hibiscus Curling Gel Souffle. After smoothing the ponytail, she combined the gel with the Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair High Shine Glosser and applied it to the tail. A wire was wrapped around the base of the ponytail and through the lengths so it wouldn’t be seen and the tail was twisted into a rope and tied off with an elastic. The tail was then looped backed to the base and pinned the updo in place. Hee then twisted the tail to create a spiral, wrapping a pice of hair around the pins, and then spritzing the look with the High Shine Glosseer to finish.
THE MAKEUP: Sir John created color in motion by applying either a cobalt blue, olive green or shimmering maroon pigment to the eyes with a fan brush, depending on what the girls were wearing for the show. To maintain the focus on the eyes, he created luminous skin with La Prairie’s signature skincare and contoured the face’s high points (tops of the cheeks, around the brow bone, down the nose, and one the cupid’s box) with the Cellular Treatment Eye Color in Topaz.He finished the look by toning down the lip and applying lip balm for moisture.
THE MANI: Nail ninja Tracylee framed each nail with Sally Hansen’s Complete Salon Manicure by layering two coats of Winter Sky from the upcoming Tracy Reese collection with two caddy-cornered lines of a Massai Red and Yummy Yam to frame it.
New York Fashion Week can get pretty hectic with slews of shows piling on top of one another all along the city’s West Side. With Day three in full swing, Associate Beauty Editor Valis Vicenty went behind the scenes to seek out the beauty trends you be trying when the chilly season returns as well as mingling with fellow beauty buffs, and even sneaking in a glass of champagne and a chocolate or two for Valentine’s Day.