Another Family Holiday, another trip to the mall. Regular Shophounders may have noticed that while New York City is our usual stomping ground, we do like the occasional detour to the mall. That mall is often Tyson's Corner Center in in McLean Virginia, just outside of Washington DC, and one of the reasons we like it is because invariably we will find something new that has yet to make it to New York. Sometimes it's a promising concept
(Cusp) or other times it's an uninspired expansion vehicle that adds nothing to the retail scene but looks poised to make lots of cash anyway
(Ruehl). This time we were in search of Martin + Osa, a new store concept from American Eagle Outfitters. Frankly, we suspected that it would fall into the latter, uninspired category. After all, American Eagle has a sort of "Abercrombie knock-off" reputation, so we were wondering how an offshoot could possibly express any more originality that the mother ship. Well, nobody is happier to be pleasantly surprised than The Shophound. We loved Martin + Osa. It's the anti-Ruehl. Four locations around the country are up and running, including Chicago, Dallas, San Francisco and Newport Beach California in addition to Tyson's, and we can't wait for one to open in Manhattan.
Typically, companies like to test out of town before hitting the fishbowl market that is New York (where Martin + Osa's design offices are located), but this chain looks remarkably ready for prime time.The first question would be, who exactly are Martin + Osa?
Martin and Osa Johnson were a husband and wife team of adventurers and explorers from Kansas during the first half of the 20th century. They were actual people who inspired the concept of the store which carries activewear-inspired sportswear. This may not sound like the most novel of ideas, but what impressed us most was the execution of the product which feels like Patagonia filtered
through a Jil Sander sensibility. In fact the company has posted a series of rules and regulations on its website that reads as follows:If it doesn't work with jeans, chinos & sneakers, we don't make it.If it looks like it'll dissolve in rain, we don't make it.If it looks like it's made for a 20- year old, we don't make it.If it can't be worn here, there & everywhere, we don't make it.
If it can't be carried in a duffel bag, we don't make it.
If it doesn't look better over time, we don't make it.It's a refreshing set of guidelines to see in a youth obsessed market currently fascinated with fast, cheap fashion
fixes. Clearly, American Eagle feels that they have the teen/college market pretty well covered, and unlike Abercrombie's Ruehl, have decided to go after a more grown-up customer by providing a more sophisticated product instead of just a
redesigned storefront.And it's the product that impressed us the most. Martin + Osa appears to have collected a team of actual
designers instead of people who collect a series of basics and call it a line. They have managed to produce wearable clothes with just enough detail and interest to make each piece interesting without looking contrived. A simple women's tank has a subtle back seam, while a men's cashmere crewneck is executed in substantial waffle stitch with raglan sleeves. Anoraks are produced with sleek details and contrast linings with an eye that looks focused more on the city than the country. Nothing was so basic as to look generic. Instead of trying to make everything themselves, the store has wisely decided to stock accessories from brands that express their point of view and also help position the new venture in potential customers' eyes. Shoes come from
Adidas and
Puma, and also include
Sue London's soft ballet flats to wear with a taffeta party skirt.
Suunto provides sports watches. Bags from
Filson and sunglasses from
Ray-Ban,
Persol and
Mosley Tribes round out the offerings.
All of this was well presented by a staff of real grown-ups who were actually working instead of posing by the entrance, "modeling". Perhaps it was partly southern decorum, but every employee we encountered seemed genuinely interested in making sure we enjoyed our experience without being overbearing. While the music was a little loudish in places, it was nowhere near A&F's ear-rattling decibels. The salespeople were well versed in the merchandise, and bright enough to genuinely enjoy being part of launching and developing a new brand. We hope this out-of-town tryout won't take too long. Martin + Osa looked quite ready to take on New York.
Martin + Osa Tyson's Corner Center1961 Chain Bridge Road, McLean VAAlso, Northpark Center, Dallas TX, San Francisco Centre, 865 Market Street, San Francisco CA, Fashion Island Mall, Newport Beach CA, Woodfield Shopping Center, Schaumburg IL.
Product photos from Martin + Osa
