At S Bar in Hollywood, miixologists-in-training observe as master bartender Ray Magarian teaches the nuances of crafting cocktails.

If cocktails everywhere were designed by Ryan Magarian and made by bartenders who have been through his training program, we'd be a country of seriously raging alcoholics.

But such a scenario would be very expensive. And more importantly, he'd never want it that way.

"Im not trying to get people to drink more. Im getting people to drink less. I just want you to drink better," he says. Although some existing and invented buzzwords are tossed around, he uses "passion," "awesome," and "excited" with such frequency and conviction that you just have to believe him.

The 10-plus years Magarian has spent concocting thousands of drinks and customizing cocktail menus for clients large (Holland America Cruise Line, Fairmont and Sofitel Hotels chains) and small (restaurants in Portland and Seattle) have not dampened his enthusiasm one bit. But lately the "associates" in his firm, Liquid Relations, crisscross the globe when he needs to stay closer to home in Portland. Magarian's other venture, Aviation Gin, takes his ambition one step further by allowing him to formulate actual raw materials, not just ingredient combinations. Such is the life of a master mixologist in contemporary American cocktail culture.

Magarian easily bounces between teaching a group of eager bartenders and engaging in one-on-one conversation. He's in Hollywood for a few days to train the bar staff of the newest Katsuya, which just opened within the splashy brand new Americana at Brand development in nearby Glendale. Magarian's presence ensures that when advanced cocktail culture arrives in suburbia, it's done right. This is the third in a string of locations of the Japanese cuisine and style emporium. Los Angeles-based owner and operator SBE Entertainment Group, best known for their slick nightlife venues (think the "Entourage" lifestyle), have found a winning formula in pairing Philippe Starck's interior designs with chef Katsuya Uechi's cooking. Not too long ago, quiet Glendale would have been considered an unconventional choice for both a glam-type Katsuya restaurant and a cocktail roster of Liquid Relation's ilk. Times have changed, and Magarian is an appropriate ambassador for the expansion of high-end eating and drinking beyond the confines of urban centers. 

Ray Magarian with his creation, the"Kiwi Envy" (see recipe below).

With his tall stature, Pilates-enhanced posture, well-fitting jeans, dark shirt and sport coat, Portland native Magarian, 34, looks like he can get past the most formidable velvet rope scene at a typical SBE venue. Or any club, anywhere. His down-to-earth charm doesn't hurt either.

And yet he's not interested in just "rooms with alcohol." Hiring Magarian means committing to a whole other level of drink dedication. He frames it as a wise investment. "I call this kind of bar culture an insurance policy. What if the food doesn't live up to the hype? At least you have another kitchen -- a liquid kitchen -- now you have two shots. You'd be crazy to not take that policy out on yourself."

On a weekday afternoon inside the uber-designed S Bar, 20 or so staff members are seated around the dramatically lit bar, with thick training binders perched on their laps. Magarian's exhaustive program (typically five days long, but this one will be cut short so he can catch a flight north for a speaking engagement in Napa at the CIA at Greystone) takes the participants into "the cave" as they learn "the toughest bartending there is. "His affable yet firm demeanor keep things humming along. Magarian talks with incredible intensity at a breakneck pace, but every word is clearly enunciated and heard above the din of clacking bar equipment.

"I teach templates," he explains. For instance, Magarian doesn't demonstrate an Old Fashioned and then stand back and watch as trainees learn rote. Instead he gets them to understand how this staple of the cocktail canon isn't "just whiskey and muddled fruit. Spirit, sugar, water, bitters -- that's an old fashioned. "He emphatically counts with his fingers when breaking down each component of a cocktail. It doesn't have to be whiskey. You can use anything. We'll make up twenty different Old Fashioneds. "These foolproof combos help keep customers happy.

This training is also a full body workout. Not only do ingredients have to be carefully selected, measured precisely, and made in specified equipment, Magarian is uncompromising when it comes to the physicality of the craft. His drill is gospel: stand straight, shake at two o'clock for exactly six seconds, left foot forward, stomach tight ("don't let the drink shake you"), pinkie down when cracking the shaker open, and pour. Garnishes and final glass presentation require attention, too. It's all part of "teaching how to never make a bad drink."

It's his brand of "dynamic learning" that enables his clients' employees to master classic cocktails, eclectic signature drinks, and most importantly, their own palates. Hopefully they absorb even a small percentage of Magarian's encyclopedic knowledge. (Ever heard of the Corpse Reviver No. 2, a gin and absinthe cocktail popular at the Savoy Hotel during the 1920s? Magarian will tell you all about it.) And in the process, elevate the field.

Magarian has come to understand the nuances of how much power we have behind the bar. Because we walk a thin line between being a drug dealer and a societal enhancer. So he forges ahead, one fine, perfectly crafted drink at a time.

Kiwi Envy
Magarian wanted to serve a type of kiwi elderflower Collins cocktail at Katsuya, but "couldn't make it sing." When training the staff members of Katsuya Hollywood he enlisted their help. The following cocktail, which he likens to drinking a "melted kiwi," is the result of this collaborative effort. Its balance, fruity texture, mild sweetness and tiny tart aftertaste make it perfect for summer.

4 thin slices of peeled kiwi
1 oz. dry gin (S Bar uses Plymouth)
oz. St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur (AKA "angel spit")
oz. freshly squeezed lime juice
oz. simple syrup
1 oz. soda
Kiwi slice (with skin on) and lemon wedge

1.    In a pint shaker glass, add kiwis and hand press with muddler
2.    Add spirits and mixers, fill glass with ice, cover with shaker tin, and shake vigorously for 6 seconds
3.    Add soda and strain over fresh ice into Collins glass
4.    Garnish with kiwi slice and lemon

Photography: John Masterson. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

FEATURED EVENT

Back Forty's Calotada Festival
Following in Savoy's 8-year tradition, its sibling restaurant, Back Forty (190 Avenue B), presents its first annual Calotada, a traditional Catalan onion festival that marks the start of spring. Enjoy live flamenco music as you enjoy grilled calots (leeks) dipped in romesco sauce, hearty lamb chops, and a dessert of crema Catalana. The event will take place on Wednesday, May 14th with communal seating being held between 6:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Prepaid reservations are required. $60/person (212.388.1990).

EVENTS THIS WEEK (May 14 through 20)

NYC Taste of the Nation
This year is the 20th Anniversary of Share Our Strength's Taste of the Nation NYC. More than 50 New York City restaurants will participate in this annual fundraiser and tasting which supports the fight against childhood hunger. The event will take place Wednesday, May 14th at the Roseland Ballroom (239 West 52nd Street) from 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tickets are tax deductible and may be purchased online or by calling 877.268.2783. $375/VIP, $275/general admission.

Brooklyn Uncorked
Celebrate Long Island without leaving Fort Greene. The second annual Brooklyn Uncorked will feature dozens of varietals and educational information provided by over 30 Long Island wineries. Attendees will also sample Long Island and Brooklyn microbrews, plus artisanal food tastings from Brooklyn Restaurants and Long Island producers. The event will take place at the Brooklyn Academy of Music Cafe (30 Lafayette Avenue, Brooklyn) on Wednesday, May 14th, from 4:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Tickets through Brown Paper Tickets: $50/person.

Mastering Knife Skills
The Broadway Panhandler's series "Demonstrations and Conversations" presents Norman Weinstein, author of Mastering Knife Skills and the Institute of Culinary Education's resident knife guru. Weinstein will discuss and demonstrate knife techniques and offer tips as illustrated in his book. The free event will take place at Broadway Panhandler (65 East 8th Street) on Saturday, May 17rd from 2:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. (212.966.3434).

Chef Tours & Tastes
The Council on the Environment of New York City (CENYC) has just lauched a new fundraising series -- "Chef Tours & Tastes," a market-to-table tour and meal with some of the city's finest chefs. Tour the Greenmarket with a top chef, then head to the restaurant for a feast cooked from the ingredients you just selected together. The inaugural tour and tasting will feature Chef Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern. The event will take place on Saturday, May 17th. The Union Square Greenmarket tour begins at 10:00 a.m. followed by lunch at Gramercy Tavern (42 East 20th Street) at 1:00 p.m. Space is limited.  Tickets are available through Brown Paper Tickets: $125/person. A portion of the ticket is tax deductible.

Burger Battle of the Boroughs
Dish Du Jour Magazine presents the first-ever "Burger Battle of the Buroughs." Who will win the title of the best burger in the city? The event will be led by emcee George "Hamburger America" Motz and will be judged by Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky, Arthur "Food Maven" Schwartz, Kelly Choi (Eat Out New York), chef Terrance Brennan (Artisanal), and Tony Tantillo (CBS2). Competitors include Brgr and Resto representing Manhattan, Farm on Adderely and 67 Burger representing Brooklyn, Harrys Water Beach Taxi and Joe's Bestburger representing Queens, and Coals representing the Bronx.  In addition to the contest, attendees will have the opportunity to sample cuisine from over 50 local restaurants, gourmet shops, bakeries, wine, and beer companies, purchase signed copies of bestselling celebrity chef cookbooks, and be entertained by live jazz and a DJ. Tickets may be purchased online or by calling 718.777.7918. $55/advanced tickets, $65/at the door.

Image: flickr user VRoig.

Joanne Chen is the author of the newly released The Taste of Sweet: Our Complicated Love Affair with Our Favorite Treats. In the book, her first, she explores the science and culture behind why some of us have insatiable sweet tooths while others do not. The book also pays particularly interest to Americans' love-hate-guilt relationship to sweets and desserts.

Theres no doubt you're an avid lover of sweets. How did your sweet tooth become the inspiration for the book?

I grew up in a family that loved food, all sorts of food including sweets. We always had desserts and afterschool snacks, and I never thought sweets were a bad food or something limited to special occasions. So, when I became an adult, I was appalled that people didnt feel the same way. I couldnt believe people would pass up a just-baked pie! Or feel guilty about eating a cookie. So this book was an excuse to explore how our relationships with sweets (and food in general) came to be.

You write about the many ways people experience taste. Whats the difference between a non-taster, taster, and super-taster? How can someone find out what category they fall into?

Super-tasters have a higher density of taste buds than tasters and non-tasters. Our taste preferences are mainly determined by culture and experience, but our density of taste buds influence how intense certain foods might taste. So super-tasters are more apt to think certain vegetables, like Brussels sprouts, are very bitter, or certain sweets, like Rocky Road ice cream, are too sweet. As one scientist I interviewed explained, super-tasters live in a neon taste world, while non-tasters live in a pastel taste world. You can get an idea by taking a quiz on my website, The Taste of Sweet. You can also get strips of PTC paper from science hobby or teaching shops. These test strips will taste bitter to super-tasters and tasters. Non-tasters will taste nothing at all.

Are some sweets perceived as more low-brow than others? Why is a box of Godiva chocolates more coveted than a box of Whitman's? Isn't it all chocolate?

Yes, I believe some sweets ARE perceived as more low brow than others. It all depends on context. Godiva chocolates are considered more high end than Whitmans because the price points are higher, justified, in part perhaps, by the purity/quality of the chocolate and fillings its made with. However, one scientist I interviewed brought up a good point. He wonders why certain wines are deemed better than otherswhat is better? Its only deemed better because someone influential in a particular circle says so. Of course, in some social circles, Godiva chocolates are low brow, and something elselike Vosges or Michel Cluizelis consider high brow.

Theres a lot of fear about high fructose corn syrup. Should folks be wary?

The jurys still out on that issue. One UCSF doctor I interviewed, Robert Lustig, believes that we should be. HFCS contains slightly higher levels of fructose than plain sugar. Fructose is processed differently and he believes excess intake (which happens when we drink several cans of soda a day) could compromise liver function and wreak havoc on our insulin system. A study out of the University of Florida last December also voiced concern about fructose. But other scientists disagree, including those with the Centers for Science in the Public interests. I believe everything in moderation is the safe way to go.

Let's play a little word association. I will name a sweetener, and you'll tell me the first thing that comes to mind:

Sugar? Innocence
Saccharin? Old ladies
Honey? Breakfast
Maple Syrup? Sticky
Stevia? Green

After writing The Taste of Sweet, how has your relationship with sweets changed?

I eat sweets more frequently and freely, but I eat less of them at each sitting. Researching the book as really helped me appreciate the tastes and flavors of every bite and listen to my satiety signals. If the taste has dulled, that means its time to put it away and eat it later. Also, Ive learned to take a moment and analyze my cravingsis it something crunchy that I want? Or warm? Or creamy? Then I zero in on that, rather than wasting time (and calories) on a fat-free muffin, only to make myself a brownie sundae 15 minutes later.

Finally, how do you stay so svelte?

Ive found that when I stopped denying myself the foods that I liked, I stopped obsessing over them and I gained better control over my eating habits (and even lost a few pounds in the process of writing the book). Also, I should add, I was never a fan of heavy fatty foods. So, Im the kind of person that orders a salad for an entre with dressing on the side and then gets the chocolate cake and ice cream for dessert.

Illustration: iStockphoto.

FEATURED EVENT

Tequila: The Future of Tradition
As spirits go, tequila often gets a bad rap. To educate imbibers about agave (above), tequila's flavor profile, and its rich history, Astor Center (399 Lafayette Street) is presenting a class, "Tequila The Future of Tradition." A discussion will be led by David Suro-Piera, President of Siembra Azul Tequila and Foundation. along with tequila experts Dr. Rodolfo Fernandez and Claudio Jimnez Vizcarra, all of whom will be presenting in New York City for the first time. Sample a variety of tequilas, learn proper tasting techniques, and finish the evening off with appetizers from Caf Frida. The class will take place in Astor Center's Gallery on Friday, May 9th, from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tickets: $45/person.

EVENTS THIS WEEK (May 7 through 13)

Spring Beers and Spring Cheeses
Saxelby Cheesemongers' Anne Saxelby is teaming up with Back Forty's Michael Fuquay to present a spring cheese and beer tasting. Among the bounty, discover cheeses from Vermont's Lazy Lady Farms and Jefferson, New York's Brovetto Dairy paired with seasonal wheat and other light beers, including Troeg Dream Weaver Wheat from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania and Schneider Edelweiss Organic Hefeweizen from Bavaria, Germany. The event will take place at Back Forty (190 Avenue B) on Wednesday, May 7th, from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. Reservations: 212.388.1990. $25/person.

WEP Fundraising Event
The Women's Education Project is hosting a fundraising event to benefit students from the poorest backgrounds in South India succeeding in college and pursuing meaningful careers. The evening's festivities will include fine Indian vegetarian food, Bhangra dancing, open bar, plus raffles for prizes like Betsey Johnson jewelry, Conan OBrien tickets, a yoga class, and more. The event will take place at  the Om Factory (265 West 37th Street) from 7:00 to 9:00 p.m. For more information, contact the program's direction, Zoe Timms. $20/door donation.

Chocolate and Wine Tasting
Join Joan Cukos, owner of the artisinal chocolate shop Chocolat Moderne, for a sampling of her confections paired with wines. Try peanut praline with Amontillado sherry or dark ganache with cabernet sauvignon. The free event will take place at Bottlerocket Wine + Spirit (5 West 19th Street) on Saturday, May 10th, from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. Reservations are not required.

Wine and Sailing Excursion
Dynamic Outdoors is hosting a sailing excursion to Long Island Sound combined with an afternoon wine tasting at North Fork Vineyards. Spend the two hour adventure learning sailing skills or simply relaxing. Arrive at the vineyard and enjoy a picnic lunch with the wine tasting. The event will take place on Sunday, May 11th, departing at 9:00 a.m. from the Upper West Side and 9:15 a.m. from the Upper East Side, with the return arrival at about 5:00 p.m. Tickets: $79/person.

All in the Family
Throughout the month of May Murray's Cheese (254 Bleecker Street) is celebrating "The Mothers of Cheesemaking." "All in the Family" is a class focusing on cheeses produced by family run businesses. Join instructor Lousie Geller for a plate full of cheese from families like the Kehler brothers of Jasper Hill Farm and the mother-son combo at Cato Corner Farm. The class will take place on Monday, May 12th from 6:30 to 8:00 p.m. $50/person.

Slice, Dice and Spice NY
If you've got a little free time and are itching for a culinary getaway, head upstate to the Finger Lakes for Slice, Dice and Spice, NY. Among the highlights is an Iron Chef-style competition featuring the regions culinary assets. Teams will be asked to create a meal using common "Market Basket" ingredients, plus one secret ingredient. All of the products used in the competition will be exclusive to the region from local farmers and food producers. The event will take place beginning Monday, May 12th, through Thursday, May 15th, at the New York Wine & Culinary Center (800 South Main Street, Canandaigua). For more information, visit the official site. Tickets for the Final Cook-Off are $50/person.

Image: Siembra Azul.

Silicone chopstick rests by Shukoh Hayashi are twisted to form the shape of a helix. $30 for five.

The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) has created Destination: Japan, a collection of more than 100 products (exclusive to the MoMA Store) created by established and emerging Japanese designers. We've sifted through them to find culinary-oriented products, from cooking gadgets to barware and tableware. Below are highlights of some of the more stylish, useful, intriguing, and amusing designs.