#NYFW Fall 2012: Best of Day 5

Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera
Jenny Packham
Rachel Roy
Donna Karan
3.1 Phillip Lim
Reem Acra
Karen Walker
Chris Benz
Alice + Olivia
Bibhu Mohapatra
Betsey Johnson
Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Jenny Packham Rachel Roy Donna Karan 3.1 Phillip Lim Reem Acra Karen Walker Chris Benz Alice + Olivia Bibhu Mohapatra Betsey Johnson
By Glam Editors February 13, 2012
Studded waists and gaucho hats. Fringed capes and iridescent gowns. Bullfighter jackets and fur. Welcome to Carlos Miele's Fall and Winter world. The Brazilian designer drew from Latin American influences to spice up cold-weather style. His cocktail dresses, evening gowns, and waist-slimming high rise pants comprised sophisticated silhouettes that can work from day to night and cover the modern woman's "What to Wear?" conundrums.
When we think Herrera, we think regal, elegant, refined. The Fall/Winter 2012 collection for her eponymous line didn't stray one bit from that description. Black and indigo pieces adorned with velvety trims, rousing feathers, and bedazzled beading broke brightened into a set of misty blue and signature red, gowns featuring graphics from artist Joe Duke. It seemed like a departure from her more upscale clients and a fresh way to translate her mature work to a younger audience.
If Betty Page were a twenty-something siren living in 2012 with a more conservative sass, she'd be the Jenny Packham Fall/Winter 2012 woman. The designer's 34 evening wear looks spanned from sweet ivory cocktail dresses with immaculate draping and ornate necklines, to vampy beaded gowns with plenty of slink, and a few fancy jumpsuits in between. The color palette remained pretty simple with black, red, camel, ivory, and a few pops of baby blue. In a nod to pinup glamor, models strutted with fierce plum lips, seductive eyes, strategically contoured cheekbones, and the perfect rockabilly 'do.
Rachel Roy gave a nod to earthy tones, architectural feats, and mod silhouettes with her Fall/Winter 2012 presentation. She softened leather with chunky scarves and delicate aquatic prints, and offered a take on color blocking with shades in the same color family. Roy also took grandma's favorite pastime, crochet, and made it appeal to the hip fashionista by adding it to full skirt hemlines and layering chunky crochet vests atop bright turtlenecks.
Get suited and sexy with Donna Karan's Fall/Winter collection, which amps up the power suit and makes it as seductive as it is serious. The New York native gave us a Blues Brothers vibe with menswear inspired skirt suits, jumpsuits, and quaint fedoras that did more than top off already awesome looks. She lengthened blazers and turned them into cool cocktail options, and added stiff cuffs to the edge of sheer, black sleeves. Karan meant business, but made it fun, too.
Minimalist maven Phillip Lim presented a new collection with optical illusions in mind. His show started out monochromatic with two-tone pants, dresses, and rompers that lend to a slimmer looking you. As the looks progressed, you could see how Lim incorporated a great deal of layering without allowing his looks to become too stuffy and overwhelming. We love how he added length to skirts by including sheer panels as a perfect way to show skin while covering up. That's what we call a win-win situation.
Strong shoulders and cinched waists aren't going anywhere thanks to Reem Acra's Fall/Winter collection. She outfitted the strong, dominant woman with sleek leather dresses and suits in black and sangria, then spiced up the runway with dazzling sequins and sheen to intensify her mostly black designs. Tweed and hounds tooth were also collection staples, but Acra really took our breath away with her evening wear fit for a diva extraordinaire: body-con minis, scintillating designs, sheer gowns and feisty cutouts for the ultimate tease.
Karen Walker's Fall/Winter 2012 collection is crisp, young, and witty with all-over prints, a coy tomboy style, boxy silhouettes, and the tiniest of tiny peplum touches we've seen all season. Canary yellow proved to be the perfect pop of color for her first few navy and cream looks, then Walker played up the prints: plaid with metallic jacquard skirts, pointed flat collars on bandana print tops, and top-to-bottom print mashups that were as psychedelic as they are preen.
Class is in session. Register early and get a front row seat to Chris Benz's lessons on modern-day lasses and the art of dressing up. His Fall and Winter 2012 presentation was funky and fresh with silhouettes that spoke of old Hollywood glamor and Stepford wife style, matched with a 21st-century prismatic punch. Looks like shopping your mom's old duds may come in handy.
Alice + Oliva’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection has you set for the office, happy hour, after-hours, and the company's annual holiday gala, all in living color. We don't even know where to begin with this collection! It spanned floor-grazing ball gowns with zany prints, fiery cocktail dresses worn with matching printed pumps, and a striking two-piece pant suit that killed the taboo notion that horizontal and vertical stripes can't be worn at the same time.
Bibhu Mohapatra finally hit the Lincoln Center catwalk for this first time this year with his Fall 2012 show. There were plenty of wearable pieces, like a high-waist ivory pant, cinched peplum leather jacket, and a crème dress where cutouts were traded for red panels. Mohapatra didn't shy away from his lavish aesthetic. He upped the luxe with puffy knit shoulders, colorful furs, shiny sets, strategically-placed feathers, and ombre evening gowns.
While her consummate cartwheel may be a show all on its own, Betsey Johnson's Beatles-inspired collection for Fall and Winter was a scene-stealer. Enter herringbone, floor-grazing dusters, oversized sun hats, and skinny pant suits. As expected, we say plenty of fluorescent looks dipped in bright highlighter hues, and hypnotizing patterns that'll have the little girl in us all wanting to play dress up. Oh, did we mention that Johnson did the splits too?!
The weekend may be winding down, but Mercedes-Benz Fashion is still rolling along. We've got the day's highlight from The Tents at Lincoln Center.
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