Everything You Need To Know Before You Try Facial Cupping

You've probably heard of traditional cupping, a holistic treatment used since the inception of Chinese and Egyptian medicine. This ancient technique's exact origin is not well known, but it's been used for centuries, and now the modern world is catching up. Celebrities have taken to cupping like ducks to water – Kim Kardashian practically introduced the world to facial cupping, while stars like Gwyneth Paltrow took body cupping for a spin as soon as the treatment gained traction. Of course, the rest of us were immediately curious as to what all the fuss was about.

"Facial cupping works by using suction to pull the facial muscles, promoting circulation," dermatologist Michele Green, M.D., tells Self. The result is smooth, plumped skin. Facial cupping might even make your eyes appear more open and awake, celebrity esthetician Lora Condon adds. So how, exactly, does putting small suction cups on your face yield these results? Condon tells Self the suction drains retained fluid from the face, doing away with puffiness. The results are not permanent, however, so if you like what you see after a facial cupping session, you'll need to subject your face to those little suckers again to maintain your newfound glow. If you're as intrigued as we are, learn everything you need to know before you book your first facial cupping session.

This seemingly torturous treatment can seem, well, crazy, but there is a method to the madness. According to the Times of India, the idea behind cupping is that the small vacuums created by the cups balance the body's energy flow, which is also referred to as "qi."

Facial cupping uses the small vacuum pockets created by the cups to work like a facial massage. As the skin is subjected to the vacuum created by the cup, blood flow increases, giving your skin that extra glow. The fresh blood rushing to the area can help new blood vessels form. Facial cupping also creates sterile inflammation, which simply means that the skin suffers controlled microtears and trauma. The body reacts to this by sending platelets and white blood cells to the area, which is what gives your skin that post-cupping glow.

It's easy to pass this strange facial treatment off as a fad, but dermatologist Noopur Jain, M.D., tells the Times of India, "It is indeed effective." In addition to providing your facial skin with a much-needed massage, facial cupping also works to extract surplus fluid that is then drained by the body's lymphatic system. The result is more elasticity, thanks to muscles and pores being tightened throughout the process. Jain says you almost get the effect of a facelift, and you might even notice that your jawline is more pronounced. Okay, now they have our attention.

While there's no doubt that most of us would love to reap the benefits of facial cupping, it's not a great option for everyone — especially if you have skin that's sensitive or fair. Speaking to Self, dermatologist Michele Green, M.D., explained that facial cupping can potentially cause bruises and broken capillaries in these individuals. "In addition, the repetitive suction can break the collagen fibers in the skin," she adds.

That is definitely not what any of us want. When it comes to gauging whether your skin is too fair or sensitive for cupping, the best option is to speak to your dermatologist or esthetician. If you're unsure, do not try facial cupping at home to see what happens. It's your face, and you most certainly don't want to look like you've been in a boxing match.

Celebrity esthetician Kerry Spindler explains on her website that it's also important you don't attempt facial cupping if you have certain health conditions. If you have bad swelling, tumors, cancer, inflammation, heart disease, or thrombosis, it's best to wait until the condition clears up. If you do happen to have any of the health conditions listed, you might still be able to get facial cupping in some instances, but you'll need to check with your dermatologist or esthetician first.

Most of us are aware that traditional body cupping tends to leave noticeable bruises, and, unfortunately, facial cupping, albeit gentler, can still leave a bruise or two. Most experts insist that facial cupping typically doesn't lead to any facial bruising, but that's only the case if it's done right. Speaking to Oprah Daily, acupuncturist and esthetician Lorraine Lavenita explained that bruises from cupping are usually a direct result of inhibited blood flow. Therefore facial cupping experts take care to keep the cups moving across the face at all times — the cups won't be placed on your face and left there for a few minutes like they are with body cupping; they need to be continuously gliding over your face. This way, bruising can't occur.

Of course, if facial cupping is done incorrectly, you might deal with some very nasty bruising. Dermatologist Noopur Jain, M.D., says bad facial cupping techniques can not only leave you with nasty bruising but can also cause infection and skin discoloration. That's why it's a good idea to let an expert perform this treatment.

So, you're totally hooked on the idea of facial cupping, and you want to give this treatment a whirl at home. Before you dive in and start to randomly apply suction to your face, you should know a few things.

First, make sure you have the right cups — they need to be small and soft. Second, make sure you cleanse your skin beforehand. Never try cupping on dry skin; you'll risk causing some serious damage. Acupuncturist and massage therapist Sakina Di Pace says she applies oil, like prickly pear seed oil, to the skin prior to cupping. She adds that serums or lotions containing active ingredients are also great options, since cupping will increase absorption. Apply these products before the oil.

Once you start the cupping process, Di Pace says to move them horizontally across your skin — don't drag them downward. Use the bigger cups in your kit for your forehead, cheeks, and jawline. Work the cups from the center of your face outward. "You can then move on to the eyes and lip areas with the smaller eye cup," Di Pace says, but she warns that you should be careful of hurting the fragile under-eye skin. "Never slide the cup here, only squeeze and release it," she says. You can also use cupping to plump your lips. Remember to keep the cups moving at all times to prevent bruising.

While facial cupping kits are readily available, it doesn't necessarily mean that you should be doing this treatment at home. When in doubt, it's always wise to look at what experts have to say on the matter. Celebrity esthetician Kerry Spindler explains that, despite being a non-invasive procedure, facial cupping is still done best by a professional. "Facial cupping done by a licensed esthetician will be more targeted and effective because they understand the structure of the face," Spindler writes, adding, "They know what to do at different points with different skin types."

Spindler is not the only expert who recommends you see a professional for this treatment. Dermatologist Noopur Jain says that even though social media promotes doing this treatment at home by yourself, it's not necessarily the best option. "I will suggest everyone get it done only at professional clinics or at specialists," adding that going to an expert will ensure you don't deal with any side effects like bruises or skin discoloration.

Facial cupping usually takes about 10 minutes. Some estheticians offer other facial treatments alongside cupping, in which case the procedure can take up to 30 minutes.

Senior Editor of Oprah Magazine, Jonathan Borge, tried facial cupping and reported back on his experience in Oprah Daily. He mentioned that getting facial cupping done by an expert was a more satisfying experience than doing it at home. Borge went to a licensed esthetician and acupuncturist and described the experience as "soothing." Borge says that, upon arrival, the esthetician cleansed his face and proceeded to apply oil to his skin to ensure there was enough lubrication for the cups to move smoothly. It's not typically a painful experience at all, and the only disconcerting thing you might experience is the popping sound the cups make as the esthetician moves them across your face. "Cupping felt the way getting your head scratched does — relaxing," Borge writes, adding, "After it was over, [the esthetician] suggested I leave the oil on my skin and go about my day."

Ananda Emily Reese, LAc, tells Healthline you can enhance your facial cupping results if you do it alongside acupuncture treatment. "If someone is coming to see me just for facial acupuncture, I do some general balancing points on the hands and feet, facial massage, then cupping, then needles," Reese says. She suggests you do a cupping session once every week for 10 weeks, then switch to monthly appointments to maintain the results.