#LFW: Gothic Blues at Felder Felder

If you think the word 'gothic' is synonymous with the word 'black', think again. As shown at the AW11 Felder Felder runway show during London Fashion Week, swapping black for a rich blue hue provides a punky, playful twist on the typical 'I'm-a-club-kid-so-I-wear-all-black-makeup' look. “It's fun—a lot of attitude and energy,” says Georgina Graham, MAC Cosmetics key makeup artist. “We wanted to do something very graphic, very punk, very London.”

To construct the architectural dual-winged eyeliner, Graham painted linearly using Fluidine in Blacktrack ($15), resulting in two thick lines that extended past each eye. One sharply flicks up and out; the other horizontal and square.

Wanting to create strong definition around the mouth, Graham precisely outlined each girl's lips with Eye Pencil in Ebony ($13), and filled in with a blue-black color she created especially for Felder Felder using Lipmix ($14.50). To make their pouts standout, she used Marine Ultra Pigment Powder ($21) from the new Wonder Woman collection. “Using our fingers, we just pushed it into the center of the lip,” she reveals. “It just gives it a really beautiful pop of blue.”

As for skin, Graham thought it best to use Face & Body Foundation ($32.50), a liquid instead of powder. “The look is really modern because there is no powder,” adds Graham. “We've used a few punk elements, but we still want the girl to look healthy.”