For his SS11 collection, Elie Saab paid homage to the Seventies "Icons of the Night," Bianca, Diane, and Lauren.
The aesthetic was one of ultra luxe, as a collection of soft, gorgeous clothes walked the runway, radiated cascading elegance and eternal youth. Unlike many of his Parisian peers, Saab eschewed the use of eye-popping jewel tones (save for one, sumptuous coral) and let pastels do the talking. The color palette perhaps reminiscent of a Polaroid that had faded over the years, conjured up memories of a time where glitz, glamour, and the jet-set weren't about the flash, cash, and all-access they are now.
Liquid metallic dresses and wide-leg jumpsuits in golden and delicate periwinkles evoked the exuberance of an evening in Bahia, ensembles that were not only easy-to-wear for a variety of body types, but timelessly elegant in their casual, yet statuesque silhouettes. There was one print, a soft abstract chiffon dress in peaches and periwinkles, channeling the ethereal bohemian who has become this season's go-to inspiration girl. Yet for all this softness, the collection oozed a sort of classic femininity modernized by strong accessories.
The jewelry was piled on: stacked charms, bracelets, and cuffs snaking up models' arms. Footwear consisted of color coordinated towering suede sandals and little rectangular clutches in nude-colored suede or olive-green crocodile were studded with graphic metal clasps which caught the flashes of light from the photographers' cameras. The bags for daytime, structured 70's box purses, were bang on trend for SS11 and sure to be a strong selling point. Saab's forte, eveningwear, did not disappoint, and an all-black clad Dita Von Teese sitting in the front row visibly perked when the collection segued from nip-waisted tea dresses and other daytime delights into an array of plunging necklines, gray-tinted sequins worked into a crocodile motif and long, flowing delicately sequined peach gowns. —Kristin Knox, The Clothes Whisperer