Our Dermatologist Breaks Down HPR, A Retinoid Gentle Enough For Sensitive Skin
Retinoids have made a big name for themselves in skincare circles — both for better and for worse. Enthusiasts celebrate products containing these vitamin A derivatives for various skin benefits, from reducing wrinkles and evening out skin texture to fighting inflammation and clogged pores (via Medical News Today). But others share horror stories of strong retinoids damaging their sensitive skin, with symptoms like "itching," "dryness," and "scaling" being known side effects, per Medical News Today.
So, what are sensitive-skinned folks to do? Just eschew all the potential benefits of retinoids and avoid these products entirely? Good news: Traditional retinoids aren't the end-all-be-all of skincare, nor are they your only option. There's a new player in the retinoid game: hydroxypinacolone retinoate, aka HPR, which may be gentle enough even for the most sensitive skin types.
It's exciting news, for sure, but we've been burned before. To learn how this product works — and what makes it different from other retinoids — Glam spoke exclusively to dermatologist Aanand N. Geria, M.D. FAAD, of Geria Dermatology. Dr. Geria explained the science behind HPR and why it may be an ideal choice, even for delicate skin types.
The unique structure of HPR
Retinoids have been around for years, but HPR isn't your mama's vitamin A — and it has its own way of doing things. "Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a newer retinoid," Dr. Aanand Geria exclusively told Glam. "HPR is structurally distinct from retinoids including retinol, tretinoin, and adapalene. As an ester of all-trans retinoic acid, it must be converted into retinoic acid in the skin to work. ... Esterification may improve its stability and limit the release of the acid, making it more mild."
In layman's terms, the fact that HPR is an ester means that its base is oil, making it more palatable for the skin than more acidic retinoids. It's no wonder, then, that it's gaining popularity for maintaining great effectiveness without the severe side effects. "HPR is promoted as a gentler alternative to standard retinoids, meaning It may cause less irritation, redness, and peeling," Dr. Geria explained.
Users with sensitive skin will also rejoice that the dosage for HPR may be lower than the retinoids they've tried before. "Research suggests that HPR may permeate the skin more efficiently than standard retinoids, perhaps improving efficacy at lower dosages," Dr. Geria told us. This opens the door for more potential users to reap the benefits of HPR, which are broad. As Dr. Geria added, "HPR's broad retinoid activity may impact skin health, such as collagen formation, cell turnover, and rejuvenation." In other words, adding HPR to your skincare routine may produce the same anti-aging effects beloved in standard retinoids.
How to use HPR in your skincare routine
The science behind HPR may sound complicated, but it's simple to add to your skincare regimen. In fact, Dr. Aanand Geria offered that HPR is an "ideal" place to begin for anyone new to retinoids, like dipping your toe into the pool before diving in. "Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is ideal for sensitive and dry skin types, offering a gentle introduction to retinoids. Its low irritation potential makes it suitable for beginners and those concerned with aging," Dr. Geria exclusively told Glam.
That said, there are right ways and wrong ways to work HPR into your routine. "A comprehensive skincare regimen is essential for people who want to introduce HPR," Dr. Geria told us. "To ensure a clear canvas for the products that follow, start with a mild cleanser. Then, apply an HPR-containing cream or serum." However, you can't go overboard. "A pea-sized amount is enough for your whole face. To counteract any potential dryness, follow this with a hydrating moisturizer," he concluded.
Basically, bookend HPR with gentle cleansing and deep hydration, and don't forget sun protection to conclude your routine. "Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin at the end of the morning, especially if you're using retinoids," instructed Dr. Geria, reminding us that retinoids make your skin more light-sensitive. Of course, individual reactions may vary. As with any new skincare product, Dr. Geria advised, "Consider performing a patch test before applying it to your whole face."
Products to avoid while using HPR
Excited to jump on the HPR train? When adjusting your skincare routine to accommodate this game-changing retinoid, it's important to make sure there are no contraindicated products vying for space in your daily lineup. HPR may be a gentler option, but it's still a retinoid that should be handled with care.
As Dr. Aanand Geria exclusively pointed out to Glam, "Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is generally compatible with many skincare products, but caution is advised when combining it with certain ingredients. HPR may enhance the effects of other retinoids, potentially leading to increased sensitivity or irritation." More specifically, he added, "It pairs well with hydrating ingredients and antioxidants. However, avoid simultaneous use with products containing benzoyl peroxide or vitamin C, as they might compromise its stability." Essentially, drop other retinoids and medicated products to let HPR shine as the star of your routine. Otherwise, you risk overdoing it and falling straight back into the dryness and skin irritation you're trying to avoid.
But don't panic if you experience an adjustment period when you get started. "Potential side effects of HPR include mild irritation, redness, or dryness, especially during the initial phase of use," Dr. Geria told us — a reminder that even mild retinoids like HPR can have a powerful impact. To sidestep these issues, Dr. Geria advised building up your HPR use gradually and remembering to support your skin with plenty of hydration and that all-important SPF. With these precautions in place, you'll be best positioned to reap HPR's full benefits.