Do Barrier Repair Creams Actually Work? Our Dermatologist Weighs In
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The skin comprises several layers that work together to defend your body against the external environment, per Healthline. If your skin becomes compromised, this leaves you vulnerable to a number of toxins and severe water loss, which is where barrier repair creams come in handy. However, if you're wondering if barrier creams are simply another buzzy skincare trend, rest assured that you're not alone in your skepticism.
To find out if barrier repair creams truly heal damaged skin, Glam reached out to Dr. Jenny Liu, a board-certified dermatologist and FAAD (Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology) who shares helpful skincare tips via her Instagram and TikTok accounts. When asked how barrier repair creams differ from standard face moisturizers, Dr. Liu reveals exclusively to Glam that "all creams that [are] applied to the face (a.k.a moisturizers) are barrier repairing."
In other words, most face moisturizers that you can find on the shelves contain ingredients that support the skin. "However, nowadays certain moisturizers may have additional ingredients," Dr. Liu explains, which may offer "soothing, healing, and skin barrier support properties." Regardless of whether you've weakened your skin's barrier from allergies or the over-use of skincare actives, using barrier creams can help nurse your remarkably resilient skin back to health.
When should you use a barrier repair cream?
Before you abandon your moisturizer and invest in a barrier repair cream, assess your skin's health for signs of a compromised barrier. The telltale signs of a damaged skin barrier include dryness, itchiness, acne, or heightened sensitivity (via Healthline). In many cases, the excessive use of chemical exfoliators, harsh acne treatments, or failure to address skin allergies is to blame. However, simplifying your skincare routine to calm redness and reduce irritation often solves the issue.
On the other hand, in our exclusive chat, Dr. Jenny Liu explains that a compromised skin barrier left untreated may lead to conditions such as "dermatitis, sensitive skin, [and] inflammation." As such, when it comes to healing your skin, putting an end to harmful skincare practices and identifying potential irritants is equally as important as using a high-quality face cream. While there's not a "clear definition" of what constitutes a barrier cream, those with extra ingredients may provide a stronger boost of hydration than a standard face cream and prove even more effective in supporting the healing process, according to Dr. Liu.
Ingredients to look for
"There are some [products] that I love and recommend," Dr. Jenny Liu shares exclusively with Glam, before shouting out La Roche-Posay's (LRP) Cicaplast Gel. "And there are clinical studies that have shown LRP's formula [and] their thermal spring water and prebiotic can help improve skin barrier function, which is why it's their number one seller in Europe and is used for many skin concerns including diaper rash." Dr. Liu also recommends LRP's Cicaplast because it contains vital minerals such as copper and zinc, as well as Centella, which is not typically found in the average moisturizer.
Dr. Liu's other product recommendations include the Drunk Elephant Bora Barrier Rich Repair Cream, which features copper, zinc, and a blend of lipids that provide soothing benefits and help balance moisture levels. Kiehl's Ultra Facial Advanced Barrier Cream also supports barrier repair thanks to ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal to soothe irritation, and beta-glucan, which nourishes sensitive skin.
Despite the wealth of healing ingredients in barrier repair creams, Dr. Liu reminds us that "any cream technically will help to repair skin." Therefore, examine the ingredient list in your everyday moisturizer before heading out to your local beauty store, as it may be plenty nourishing on its own. Meanwhile, if the root of the problem lies in over-exfoliating the skin or neglecting to treat skin conditions, the first port of call may be to correct these habits.