100 Years Of Eyeliner

The modern consumer has more eyeliner choices than ever. Pencil eyeliners similar to the ones used in the '40s are still around, as are their modern versions, such as retractable pencils with creamy, highly pigmented formulas. Liquid liners also come in several formats, while reliable, high-pigmented powders and brushes are on the shelves, too. When it comes to color, bright pastels and neons have entered the conversation as well. 

But how did we get here? A century ago, the art of eyeliner was brought into being through, like most inventions, necessity. The history of eyeliner is married to the history of early silent cinema. Then, in its next phase, eyeliner gets its wings and proliferates with the rising popularity of mass media, publications, and global advertising. This culminates in its status as one of the most highly regarded, most useful tools in the feminine tool kit. Trends come and go: novelties enjoyed today are hated tomorrow, yet some products preserve. We'll always use lipstick, mascara, and eyeliner in one form or another, though we'll constantly be re-inventing how we use these items in order to create different effects.

Although the makeup worn by the actresses on the silver screen was worn with the intention of camera visibility, this did not stop women all over the world from being inspired by what they saw. This environment allowed Hollywood makeup artist Max Factor to develop a product line and company to sell the makeup he developed and used working in the entertainment industry, including the products he used to create the bold eyeliner looks for black and white films. Factor was known for his expertise in color theory, and he developed a system of color harmony that he used for the products. This system involved matching the makeup colors to the natural tones of the skin and hair, and it helped women achieve a natural, flattering look.

By the 1930s, Maybelline was already a major player in the cosmetics industry, and in 1932, the brand introduced and sold the first automatic eyeliner pencil. The pencil was called the Eazy Lash Eyeliner and was a revolutionary product at the time. It was a self-sharpening pencil that could be twisted up to reveal more product, eliminating the need for a separate sharpener. The product was also waterproof and long-wearing, which made it popular with women who wanted long-lasting, smudge-proof eyeliner. Maybelline used Clara Bow, a popular actress of the time, to advertise its products since she was famous for her doe-like eyes.

Makeup in the 1950s was influenced by the glamour of Hollywood and the elegance of post-war fashion. It was a time when women embraced femininity and glamour, and makeup was an important part of achieving that look. One of the most iconic makeup trends of the 1950s was the "cat-eye" or "winged" eyeliner. Women extended the shape of their eyes using eyeliner and would use it to create a dramatic flick at the outer corners of their eyes, which added a touch of glamour and sophistication to their overall look. 

The winged eyeliner of the 1950s was characterized by a thin, precise line that extended outward and upward, following the natural curve of the eye. The wing was typically not too long or too exaggerated, but it still created a noticeable effect that added interest to the eyes. To achieve this look, women would typically start at the inner corner of the eye and draw a thin line along the lash line, gradually thickening it as they moved toward the outer corner. At the outer corner, they would then extend the line outward and upward, following the natural curve of the eye and ending in a flick or wing. The eyeliner was usually applied to the upper lid only, and the lower lash line was left bare or simply smudged with a bit of eyeshadow for a softer look.

The 1970s departed from the bold, graphic eyeliner looks of the previous decade and embraced a more natural, bohemian style. One popular eyeliner trend in the 1970s was the use of brown or earth-toned eyeliner instead of the traditional black. Women would apply a thin line of brown or bronze eyeliner along the upper lash line, creating a subtle, natural look that added definition to the eyes without being too bold. Women would apply a soft line of eyeliner along the upper lash line and then use a smudging tool or their fingertips to blur the line and create a soft, diffused effect.

Eyeliner shapes in the 1970s weren't too thick or heavy, and the winged or cat-eye shape was not as popular as it had been in previous decades. Instead, the emphasis was on creating a soft, natural look that enhanced the eyes without overpowering the rest of the face. 

Overall, the eyeliner trends of the 1970s were all about creating a relaxed, bohemian look that emphasized the eyes in a subtle and natural way. This softer, more natural look continues to influence modern beauty trends today, especially as seen with Hailey Bieber's "clean girl aesthetic" trend, though some might argue that this look is on its way out.

The eyeliner trends of the 1980s were all about creating dramatic looks that emphasized the eyes. One popular eyeliner trend in the 1980s was the use of bright, neon colors. People would use brightly colored eyeliners in shades of blue, pink, green, and purple, often applying them in thick, bold lines that extended beyond the outer corner of the eye. Gel eyeliners became popular in the late '80s and early '90s, too. 

During the '80s, women weren't the only ones wearing makeup. Men started experimenting with makeup in larger numbers. The music scene set the tone for this, as male gothic, glam rock, and new romantic musicians began regularly wearing makeup, which enhanced their edgy vibes. Musicians like Boy George and Robert Smith of The Cure shocked conservative sensibilities with their use of heavy eye makeup and eyeliner. There was diversity in the male makeup scene as well. Boy George went for a more glamorous look, while Robert Smith heavily lined his eyes with dark liner for an edgier rocker look. 

The dramatic, smoky eyeliner look could be seen on both men and women in the music scene at the time. People would apply a thick line of black eyeliner along the upper lash line and then use a smudging tool or their fingertips to blend the liner outwards, creating a smoky, hazy effect around the eyes. This added a touch of drama and intensity to any makeup look.

It can be argued that the 2000s was a period where heterosexual sex had basically made it to the mainstream. Unlike the supermodels of the '90s, who modeled haute couture or luxury prêt-à-porter, more commonly known as ready-to-wear these days, the most popular supermodels of the 2000s were women like Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Heidi Klum, who all modeled for Victoria's Secret and its high-production fashion shows. These women had more of a "girl next door" appeal rather than the intimidating high-fashion model-off-duty look. Therefore, this is when the "no makeup makeup look" became popular.

The smoky eye look was hugely popular in the 2000s, with this trend being synonymous with sexy glamor. Kohl liner had made a resurgence in popularity for the first time since the '20s and was applied liberally. Smokey eyes were so popular during this era that it can be argued that eyeliner overshadowed eyeshadow use. In Hollywood, celebrities like Christina Aguilera and Nicole Richie were known to embrace this edgy look during this era. To create the smokey eye look, Urban Decay sold an eyeliner called the "24/7 Glide on Eye Pencil" — a pencil liner that came in glittery metallics and fun colors like plum and emerald.

Although "RuPaul's Drag Race" began airing in 2009, it did not start to gain more traction and gain mass popularity until Season 5, released in 2013. For those unfamiliar with the franchise, "RuPaul's Drag Race" is a competitive reality TV series in which drag performers compete for the top prize that promises a large cash payout and a one-year supply of makeup. One of the major elements of this TV show is the preparation of each contestant's transformative runway look, which naturally includes a stamped makeup look. What makes this show remarkable is that it's revealed to the masses many of the ways in which drag performers utilize makeup, which run the gamut from the traditional high-glam look to kitschy, off-the-wall looks. 

Trixie Mattel, who won Season 3 of the "All Stars" series, is iconic for her over-the-top eyeliner used to create '60s-inspired, cartoon-like eyes. Having a musical theater educational background, Mattel clearly understands the function of eyeliner as the deep, dark tone that'll shape the eye. To create an exaggerated eye effect, she draws the exaggerated shape onto the face using a liquid liner, then fill the void with another product. Mattel is known to use unorthodox makeup products such as those from Ben Nye, a company known for its stage makeup products.